Barolo Margheria 2009

Bigger and more structured, the 2009 Barolo Margheria shows a rich, velvety texture with ripe fruit and blackberry followed by characteristic layers of licorice, mint and soft spice. The wine shows intense aromatics and beautifully delineated fruit. The warm vintage leaves its mark, imparting firm tannins and a sweet cherry finish. Anticipate maturity: 2015-2025.

Gianpaolo Pira feels an enormous attachment to his land of origin, Serralunga d’Alba, with its vineyards, rolling landscapes and secret truffle locations. His goal is to produce wines that capture the spirit of his territory. Serralunga d’Alba is a wildly beautiful and dramatic corner of the Barolo appellation. It’s the most rustic and rugged of them all, and its vineyards usually produce the boldest expressions of Nebbiolo. He has largely succeeded at his task, although some wines are more elegant that others in 2009.

Medium red. Inviting aromas of red berries, mocha and earth. Sweet, silky and a bit wild on the palate, with a faintly animal character to the aromas of strawberry, leather and dried flowers. At once supple and high-toned, finishing with substantial fine-grained tannins and some residual funkiness. I enjoyed this Barolo, but it may not be for the faint of heart.