Barolo Margheria 2015

Pira's 2015 Barolo Margheria is powerful and driven, with that backbone of tannin that always differentiates it in this range. Iron, smoke, tobacco, game, licorice and incense add layers of savory, feral intensity. Potent and a touch linear, the 2015 is long on character, but it also needs time for the tannins to soften. Even so, it has tons of potential. Chalk, white pepper and a floral linger on the vibrant finish. This is very nicely done.

Gianpaolo Pira and his brothers produce a number of Barolos from their Serralunga holdings, and the Margheria is made from 50-year-old vines. There are dense herbal and cherry aromas on the nose. The attack is surprisingly soft but it gains in grip and concentration on the mid-palate. It's spicy and assertive without being too extracted, well balanced overall and a gentler style of Barolo. Pira's Vigna Rionda is of similar quality but with more backbone.