Barolo Margheria 2017

The Pira family farms several of the most important single-vineyard sites in Serralunga d'Alba, and this one has 50-year-old vines. The Luigi Pira 2017 Barolo Margheria offers a hint of the vintage ripeness with some wild strawberry and dried raspberry. In fact, those sweet fruit flavors emerge here in the Margheria more than they do in the other crus sites from this estate that are now on the market. That extra degree of softness gives this wine a more immediate and accessible personality.

While Luigi Pira’s Margheria plot is not as steep as holdings in Marenca or as high as those in Vignarionda, it boasts the estate's oldest vines planted in 1959. The 2017 demonstrates the warm southern exposure with flexed muscles and an uber-compact, concentrated palate. Brooding with ash and earth, this eventually shows a floral side of lavender and rose as well as a saline minerality characteristic of Margheria. Full, vigorous and currently stern, it balances intense structure with ample fruit. It should be friendlier in a few years.