This is one of those fortunate wines that enjoys special recognition as its own brand, Pomorosso. It's also one of the pioneers of the recently minted Nizza denomination. Coppo has been making Pomorosso since 1984 and has learned a thing or two along the way. The 2017 Nizza Pomorosso is an excellent edition from a vintage that mistreated many of Piedmont's other varieties because of scorching summer heat. However, Barbera loves the heat, and this wine has absorbed every last sunbeam, adding to the wine's inner richness and concentration. Dark fruit, black currant, spice, tobacco and barbecue smoke rise from the bouquet. The aromas are big, but so is the wine's hold and grip on the palate. I taste the heat (this bottle declares a 16% alcohol content), but fresh acidity keeps the wine from feeling too heavy or ripe.